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Wednesday, September 30, 2015

NEW Niche Line Nomenclature REVIEW + Full Bottle Draw (CLOSED)


Nomenclature is a new niche brand launched in September 2015. It is creative directed by Karl Bradl (co-owner of Aedes de Venustas) and designer Carlos Quintero, and is based in New York City. The line premiered with four fragrances, each one highlighting a different lab designed molecule. Mr. Bradl and Mr. Quintero collaborated with perfumers Patricia Choux and Frank Voelkl. The fragrances are called iri_del (Iris aldehyde), orb_ital (Orbitone®), efflor_esce (Paradisone®), and adr_ett (Helvetolide®). According to their website "Nomenclature celebrates design in perfume chemistry by showcasing today’s most inspiring, exclusive molecules"





A little bit more from the website:


noun \ noh-men-kluh-cher 
From the Latin nomenclatura (“calling by name, assigning of names”), from nomen (“name”) + calare (“call”) 


 \ the act of naming 

\ the system, set of terms or symbols used in a particular science, discipline, or art

"You may not know their names, but you’ve smelled them. In fact, you probably smell of them right now. Without them, your fragrance simply wouldn’t exist. While natural essences bask in the limelight, synthetics are the clandestine infiltrators that spark off fragrant revolutions. 

It was the discovery of coumarin that yielded the first modern perfume, Fougère Royale, in 1881. Aldehydes lent their abstract sheen to Chanel N°5. Ethyl-vanillin enhanced Shalimar’s plush cleavage. Hedione® breathed its radiance into Eau Sauvage. And no contemporary scent could do without synthetic musk or the ubiquitous Iso E Super. 

Whether they imitate nature, tease out its innermost secrets or veer off into botanically impossible smells, synthetics are the true building blocks of perfumery. Elegant solutions discovered by scientists, wafting from labs onto skin and into your nose"


iri_del

The featured molecule in iri_del is iris aldehyde. On my skin it is cold and dry. It has an earthy and woody vibe. It has moderate sillage, but clings to the skin for hours and hours. You won't find any powder here. As a matter of fact, I just love this line from the ad copy "In iri_del, Patricia Choux gives iris a contemporary twist by blowing off its aristocratic powdered wig and dressing it up in a slim, sharply-tailored suit"  It was composed by Patricia Choux

orb_ital

The featured molecule in orb_ital is Orbitone. It opens with a brief pale violet. Pepper soon joins in giving orb_ital a spicy nuance. The dry down is woody and slightly incensy, but never heavy. The fragrance is actually light and airy. In the drydown you get woods and subtle incense seemingly giving you a meditative and sacred aura. It was composed by Patricia Choux.

effler_esce

effler_esce is based around Paradisone, and is my favorite of the quartet. It opens with a very bright and uplifting citrus from bergamot and bitter orange. The feel good citrus blend sticks around for a good while, even when the apricot like osmanthus and tuberose emerge. The tuberose is not heady, The tuberose in effler_esce actually brings to mind another fragrance that I love, the Le Labo NYC exclusive Tuberose 40. On my skin effler_esce had the best sillage and longevity of the four fragrances in the line. It was composed by Frank Voelkl.

adr_ett

Helvetolide is the featured molecule in adr_ett. The best way for me to describe this one is simple. Clean crisp white shirt. In German, adrett means “neat” or “dapper” and that is how adr_ett wears on my skin. The fragrance is perfectly named. My skin pulls a lot of iris from adr_ett. It was composed by Frank Voelkl.

The fragrances are in a flacon inspired by the Erlenmeyer flask, as a tribute to the chemistry labs where aromatic compounds are designed. They are 100ml and retail for $165.



Thanks to the generosity of Aedes de Venustas we are offering a nomenclature draw. There will be two prizes. First lucky reader will win a 100ml bottle of iri_del (missing about 12 sprays from my testing) and carded samples of orb_ital, effler_esce and adr_ett. The second lucky winner will win carded samples of all four. To enter, leave one comment HERE not on YouTube or Facebook of which fragrance interests you the most. My apologies, but this draw is US ONLY. Good Luck.

DISCLAIMER: These reviews were based on bottle and samples sent by the company.